Started by farmer dan
Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)
Monday 14 April 2008 at 09:24
farmer danMemberTopics: 12
We have our eye on a Ford 7840 SLE and a Ford 7840 SE ( i think its an SE) Anyway I was just wondering what either tractors are like on a whole!?!?! I know the SLE has a few doings with the gearbox but apart from that do any of you folk have any other let downs on either of these two tractors?!?! Any feedback would be much appreciated! 😀
Monday 14 April 2008 at 09:36
dont touch the one with electric gears. otherwise its a good tractor.0
Monday 14 April 2008 at 12:55
I had a 7740sle for 9 years never any real problems- gearbox is great. Had a second hand 7840 sle on trial once, it came from a contractor -l was warned its brakes had been worn right out previously and all the bits would have affected the gearbox. In second gear with a cultivator in the ground it wouldnt move the gearbox just slipped. I took it out on a steep field and it just took off. Still worth buying a good one , but make sure you test it at home in all the gears.
Monday 14 April 2008 at 19:57
Weve had one 7840sle and a 8340sle which is still about. The 7840 was a white cabbed one and was a complete pain. It was always losing gears so we’d be permanently calibrating it-like that it hasnt stayed on farm. The 8340 is a blue top and a different kettle and has been on the farm since 1998. Pay the extra go for any blue topped 40 series as they have different software in the gearboxes and will save any headaches.
Apart from that as long as you go blue top you will be buying Newhollands most reliable tractor series.
Monday 14 April 2008 at 23:01
Ooer! where do i start with this one??? If i was you id run while you can! We had 7740, 7840 and 8340 and lets just say erm after having to get nasty with the dealer, who had to send out the manufactur as they couldnt sort out the huge list of problems we left and went to case 135, we had major electric problems, error codes ago go, my tractor clocked up 11 differant codes in half an hour! my 77 used to literally throw machinery to the floor at the speed of light at any given moment, causing no end of damage, brakes on the 78 were also a nightmare, we had both blue and white cabbed units and a more than 1 of each model, serviced beyond requirements, im glad of the day we left these awful machines in yesteryear! nbsp;
Tuesday 15 April 2008 at 00:31
I had an 8340 SLE white roof. The gearbox was really rough, had to use both feet on the brakes, throttle was super hard and the PTO kept randomly cutting out. The drive shaft to the front axle often slipped when reversing, especially on hills or with a heavy trailer, and the 3pt links were very loose fitting. The trailer brakes leaked and spools were not the best, and the engine didn’t have a lot of torque low down, so there were lots of rough gear changes going up hills. The fuel filler cap is high up at the front of the bonnet, I needed a stepladder, and lightbulbs were blowing out all the time. Apart from that it was a quality tractor. [:D]
Tuesday 15 April 2008 at 20:16
Well thanks very much for all your speedy write-ups! 😀 Well most of you seem to have some slight ‘faults’, as we may call then! :P, with the ford 7840. I will have a look at the 40 series (blue cab). This is a very wide question to be asking you lot but what all round tractor would you reccomend, about 110/1120 bhp?!?! You know, reliable, strong, good all rounder i suppose! 😀 I was just looking for one thats all as i am only 16! 😀 I have bought a baler and on the way to buying a mower to do a few general jobs for the locals! 😀
Well mother has just brewed up so i best go! 😀
Thanks once again!
Tuesday 15 April 2008 at 21:31
simple… case mx120 or even better mx135! when you punish a tractor as much as we do you will see why i say that, as i have mentioned in another post my old mx135 would mop the floor with my now Jd6920, the gears are abit clunky but dam good grunting and reliable tractors with not many stupid electrics to go wrong. Enjoy!
Tuesday 15 April 2008 at 23:49
It depends on your workload really. If you’re in a big way I would suggest a Deere 6410 or similar size, but if it’s just a bit of local fieldwork you may be better off with a Ford 6600, Deere 2140, Fendt 309, something smaller and older (our Ford 6600 was quality at 15+ years old). These machines will be much cheaper and parts should be easy to find.
Don’t forget, if you get more work you can always hire, a brand new 130hp tractor costs about 10,000 a year.
Good luck with it all, and let us know how it goes. [;)]
Saturday 19 April 2008 at 21:54
we have a 7740 SE on the farm at home in Ireland, it has about 6,800 hours on it, only bought it 3 years ago with 2,700 I think was on it, was owned by a very carefull farmer in Scotland, very clean and straight, we also have a 7740 SE & 77840 SLE bought down the years, not a days trouble from the gear box in any of them, when buying buy the blue cab modle as most of the eairly white cab had a number of problems, a farmer 2 miles away has a 7740 SLE and the tractor seem to be a Monday morning job, trouble every day with it, here in Romania I have not seen a 7740 or 7840 yet in any form or shape yet, but i guess they will be arriving in the years ahead.
Thursday 24 April 2008 at 09:09
Most people i know would say the opposite and give the SLE the vote…..I’ve owned 3 (turbo’s) and worked for a guy with 9 (both trannies) and i would rate them above any red or green of equivalent age..(K-N) ,Just the best all round performer ,Simple,nice to use,…..What more.. i think they were fantastic and did’nt really have a “Bad one”…?
Saturday 26 April 2008 at 22:31
just bought a 1994 7840sle,great old bus.a few oil leaks,but nothing major(as yet) for 7000hrs on the clock.was warned off one with no oil leaks as they might have no oil left.
Sunday 27 April 2008 at 16:18
I’ve driven quite a lot of 40 series right from their launch. The first ones with the white roof and the black band (1992) around the bottom of the roof were basicly good tractors and a revolation compaired to the 10 series, but they had not got all (that should be any) of the bugs out of them. They got better each year. As has been said the blue roofed ones are the best and of those the New Holland badged ones with the rounded plastic rear fenders are the best of those, by miles.
The SL transmission had a few issues getting stuck in gear, but there was a mod’ for them. The SLE transmissions have been pretty good. They can get a bit rough to shift, but a calibration sorts that out, there is a jump 2-3rd or 6-7th, (it’s the same gear) 6-7th is rough on the road, the other shifts are fine.
There is more info on the dash than most tractors for the SLE models and the performance monitor is good. The 0-99 numbers for the poistion of the 3pt is a stroke of genius and I still don’t know why all tractors don’t use it. Once in a while it will “forget” it has a radar and the speedo will go bonkers. Just put the number back in to refresh it’s memory or sometimes they just remember it again…
If it spits fan belts off it needs an idler pully. The air conditioning is very powerfull and will keep you cool as long as the rads’ clear.
I’ve never known a problem with the engines, they do click for a few seconds from cold untill the oil is circulating, but are very reliable. There is room for 2 batteries, but there is only one. Fit 2 I say.
The swing back pickup hitch is more simple and stronger than those poxy Dromone things we all must have now, and have a better hook too.
The 7840 is a better tractor than the larger engined 8240, I don’t know why, but they seem to pull better. The lastest 8340 you can find with blue roof and plastic fenders will make as good a tractor as you will ever need, but don’t be shy with the front weights!
Sunday 22 August 2010 at 19:16
we have bought a ford 7840 and would like to know if all of them have a noisy back end
its like a whining/grinding noise and was woundring if it was normal or not
Sunday 22 August 2010 at 22:17
Hi Aidan, welcome along, seem to remember they all whine a bit, all you can really do apart from stripping it down and reloading the diff is check the oil level/condition in the back end.
Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)