PICK A USED

2 February 2001

PICK A USED

BUT NOT ABUSED QUAD

Fancy a quad but dont have the budget to buy new? Then go for a used example

instead – but be wary about what you buy, warns Peter Hill

Former shepherds 1996 Honda TRX400 has been worked hard but is in good order beneath the scuffed bodywork.

NEW quads can be beyond the budgets of dairymen who want one as an occasional run-about. But buying a second-hand machine can be a sensible alternative, as long as it has not been thrashed, neglected or down-right abused.

There is a relative shortage of low-houred quads in tidy condition, which makes it all the more important to take care when buying second-hand and to thoroughly assess what is on offer.

In making an initial saving of, perhaps, £2000 to £2500 on list prices, buyers have to remember they face higher maintenance and repair bills in future. The trick is to find a machine in good order with a decent service record, which should cut future costs.

Nor do machines have to look perfect. Bashed wheel rims, torn bodywork and bent load racks suggest a machine that has not been looked after, but a quad that outwardly looks a bit tired may still be quite sound mechanically. Just be cautious if there is no service record to show it has been regularly maintained.

Other warning signs of poor maintenance include a smokey exhaust, clattery cam chain and clonking driveshaft joints. Remember to also check that all gears are present and that the four-wheel drive system works. If the splines on the front drive shaft wear sufficiently, the shaft spins but there is no drive to the front wheels – and that may only become apparent when the quad becomes stuck in some muddy hole. &#42

With thanks to Alan Dixon, Rafferty Newman (Machinery), Petersfield, Hants.

Check for weeping oil seals on rear axle, as well as level and condition of oil in final drive casing. Also watch for welded hubs on solid axles – a sign of worn drive shaft splines.

Rubber boots and gaiters should be in good condition to protect driveshaft joints and seals from mud and water.

&#8226 Bodywork Condition of plastic panels – quite costly to replace but not crucial to machines performance – mud flaps, instruments and housings, gear levers and switch gear.

&#8226 Front and rear load racks Bent, broken or welded suggests impact damage or overloading.

&#8226 Wheels and tyres Rim impact damage suggests hard life; tyres should be soft – inflated to 2-3 psi – but not flat or over-inflated.

&#8226 Electrics Generally reliable, but look for potential shorting from bare-ended wires from removed or damaged accessories. Batteries are mostly long-lasting.

&#8226 Rear axle Oil leaks from seals; inspect oil in final drive housing for level and condition – it will be watery or muddy if seals are shot causing accelerated wear; check for welded-up hubs on solid axles which indicates worn splines. Replacement rear axle assembly typically costs £500.

&#8226 Front axle Loose steering joints – not expensive to put right; excessive wheel bearing, track rod and suspension link movement. Ensure rubber boots or gaiters protecting half-shaft joints on later models are in place and in good condition.

&#8226 Suspension Not usually a problem area, but check for over-soft rear end which suggests springs and dampers weakened by overloading.

&#8226 Engine Smokey exhaust suggests worn valves, sticking choke plunger or carburettor wear – the latter is not crucial but will impair starting reliability, increase fuel consumption and gum-up plugs. Clattery response to engine revs points to worn camshaft drive chain or worn tensioner which should be replaced, typically costing £80-£90, as recommended to avoid collateral damage resulting from failure. Check oil level and condition by dipping without screwing dip stick back into position; dark, glutinous oil suggests infrequent replacement; burnt smell suggest over-filled crankcase causing high pressures and temperatures.

&#8226 Transmission Gearboxes and centrifugal clutches are rarely a source of problems, but check all gears are present and engage readily; chain drives where fitted can be problematic and require regular maintenance/adjustment; check all drive shaft universal joints for play and knocking, especially at the front with full-lock on four-wheel drive models; drive continuously variable transmission (CVT) models under load if possible to check for belt slip.

&#8226 Chassis Check wheel alignment from side and front to rear to judge whether chassis is all square.

&#8226 Ownership Quads are vulnerable to theft; check for engine and especially chassis numbers; beware if obliterated and check ownership with manufacturers register if at all possible.