An American dish provides Philippa Vine with culinary inspiration this month – but first, watch her cooking wild mushroom pancakes.
We've had such a good crop of mushrooms this year after the rains in August and so, with my knowledgeable friends and a mushroom bible in our hands, we have brought back plenty to our kitchens.
The mushroom pancakes make a delicious lunch or even a vegetarian supper.
Wild Mushroom Pancakes
Serves 5 as a starter or 3 as a main course
For the pancakes:
75g (3oz) plain flour
2 large eggs
150ml (1/4 pint) plus milk
Oil
Salt and pepper
For the Mushroom filling:
375g (12oz) mixed wild mushrooms
15g dried porcini mushrooms soaked in 150ml warm water
25g (1oz) butter
A sliver of garlic
A sprig of thyme
1 teaspoon plain flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
150ml (1/4 pint) double cream
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
A few drops of Marsala or medium sherry
50g (2oz) Parmesan cheese, grated
First make the pancakes. Make a well in the flour, put in the eggs and a little of the milk and beat to a smooth paste. Add more milk until you have the consistency of single cream. Add a little salt and pepper and a little oil. Heat a heavy, flat, non stick pan and make 5 or 6 pancakes. Leave on a plate while you cook the mushroom filling. Pick over the mushrooms, brushing away any dirt but try to avoid washing them. Chop them roughly. Crush the garlic. Melt the butter in a pan and gently fry the mushrooms with the garlic, salt and pepper. If there is any liquid in the pan when the mushrooms are cooked, drain this off and reserve it. Return the pan to the heat and sprinkle over the flour. Stir until the flour disappears then add the liquid from the porcini and any liquid you drained from the mushrooms. When the mixture thickens add the cream, thyme, mustard and Marsala. Check the seasoning and allow the mixture to bubble gently for a couple of minutes.
To finish the dish: Lightly butter an ovenproof dish. Lay out the pancakes and divide the mushroom mixture between the pancakes reserving some of the sauce. Roll or fold the pancakes and arrange in the dish. Spoon the remaining sauce over, and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Brown under a hot grill and serve immediately.
Sticky Spare Ribs of Pork and Savoury Cornbread
While the British spare rib is a delicious roasting joint from the shoulder, it is the American-style spare ribs from the belly that offer the finger-licking delight that I am preparing this month.
This dish involves marinating the ribs in a sweet and sour glaze and serving with lots of finger bowls and kitchen paper - you can't eat them tidily and half the fun would be lost if you tried to.
In the deep South of the USA, these sticky ribs are traditionally served with corn bread which provides a good carbohydrate foil to the richness of the ribs.
I have put a few more bits and pieces into it to make it a bit more exciting. It is also delicious buttered as a savoury snack or as something a bit different for picnics.
Sticky Spare Ribs of Pork
Allow 3-4 ribs per person or about 400g
Marinade to serve 4:
3 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sweet chilli sauce
½ red chilli
2 cloves of garlic
A piece of fresh ginger about the size of your 1st thumb joint
1 teaspoon Chinese 5 spice
Salt
Grind up the ginger, chilli and garlic and then mix it up with all the other ingredients. Rub the mixture into the ribs in a dish and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours. Place the ribs in a deep roasting tin with the marinade, season and cover with tin foil and cook in an oven 170C (325F, Gas mark 3) for 1 hour. Remove the tin foil and increase the oven temperature to 200C (400F, Gas mark 6). Baste the ribs with the sauce and then cook until the ribs brown and the sauce reduces and caramelises.
Serve with finger bowls and lots of kitchen paper - and prepare to get mucky.
Savoury Cornbread
You will need 1 litre plus loaf tin.
3 spring onions, sliced
110g (4oz) sweet potato or squash, finely diced
75g (3oz) sweetcorn
½ red pepper, finely diced
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
4 halves of sun dried tomato, chopped small
10 black olives, chopped small
Thyme and rosemary, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
50g (2oz) Parmesan or strong cheddar
110g (4oz) butter
4 eggs
50g (2oz) ground almonds
110g (4oz) plain flour
110g (4oz) cornmeal
2 teaspoon baking powder
Preheat the oven to 180C (350F, Gas mark 4). Cook all the vegetables and herbs in the olive oil until they begin to soften without browning too much. Allow to cool. Grate the cheese and place it in the food processor with the almonds, flour, cornmeal, baking powder and butter. Process until it looks like crumble then add the eggs. Process again until you have a smooth batter. Fold the batter into the vegetables. Line a litre-plus size loaf tin with baking parchment and spoon in the batter. Bake in the oven for 1 hour. Reduce the heat to 160C (Gas mark 2) for the last 15 minutes if it is looking a bit dark. Cool for 15 minutes before removing from the tin and cooling on a wire rack.