Protect OSR with effective pigeon control
Shooting is the most effective way to protect your oilseed rape in winter, and it’s likely to provide some good sport into the bargain. Gas guns, windmills, kites, balloons and all the other gismos are only effective for a short time.
We all know just how difficult it can be to decoy with success on oilseed rape. It’s not just the evasive pigeons giving us trouble. The weather can be, and usually is, at its worst, with rain if not snow, and freezing winds in your back blowing the hide half way into the next county.
The pigeons will be flocked up into their hundreds or thousands. Off and away at the first two or three shots, maybe not to be seen for an hour or two, or not even re-appearing for the rest of the day. We must, therefore, make maximum use of our decoys and decoying expertise. Simply throwing a few plastic decoys or propping up two to three dead birds will definitely not do.
We should remember that unlike sowings and stubbles, the birds will be feeding as a tight flock for protection against predators such as sparrowhawks. So let’s not try to change things. Set out the patterns as the pigeons expect to see them – in a tight flock.
Let’s assume that we can set up with the wind in our back so that the pigeons will approach the pattern from the front giving us the best chance of a kill. I set my decoys in two flocks, ideally about 20 paces out on each side of the hide.
I walk 15 paces to the left of the hide, then out 20 paces into the field and throw about 12-15 decoys to the left, right, and front of me. The farthest decoy is about 20-25 paces from the hide. I then repeat the exercise on the other side of the hide.
This gives a good-sized killing area in the middle of the two flocks, and in front of the hide, at about 20-25 paces out. This is where your gun will pattern best for nice clean kills. All decoys are then positioned at no more than two feet apart on quality supports such as Eessy wobblers, which allow them to move in the breeze imitating feeding pigeons.
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| Positioning the rotary near the hide will draw in birds from long distances. |
This should pull the pigeons in from long distances that would probably not otherwise see your decoys. It’s a good idea, if you can, to build your hide within easy gun range of a well-used “sitty” tree. This is a tree used by the pigeons as a look-out for approaching danger and for resting. It is also a perfect site for the rotary to funnel the birds towards the tree for a sporting or sitting shot.
Birds as feeders or landers can then support the pattern as you knock them down, but keep the killing area clear at all times. Set these up on the outer edges of the flock. They are best supported on cradles, or on 18-inch narrow garden canes, sharpened at the narrowest end. I break both wings close to the body so that they flap in the breeze in a realistic movement.
Newly shot birds can also be positioned in the flock using green garden plant sticks available at any garden centre. I use the 15-inch size, breaking them in half and sharpening both ends. This is far less time-consuming than hunting in the wood or hedge for forked hazel twigs. Floaters will add to the picture when set farther back as incoming flying birds.
The ambush is now complete. Pigeons from a long distance will approach on seeing the spinning rotary machine. As they close in they will be encouraged by the floaters displaying freshly shot birds, and quickly spot the two flocks on the ground. Their only concern at this stage will be to select a landing area in the killing zone. This is exactly where you want them. If you can, let the first one come in to land; shoot the second in the air and then take the first as it attempts to fly away.
Need some help?
It’s often difficult to locate good reliable, safe, experienced and insured guns for this job. The main problem is you need an experienced team, not just two or three chaps who sit in the hedge without suitable equipment banging away at pigeons as far away as the next county.
The nearest Wildfowlers Association should be your first port of call. Contact The British Association for Shooting and Conservation [BASC] on 01244 573 000 for all areas of the UK. They will usually have a member who is in charge of organised woodpigeon shooting and controlling that specialist section within your nearest club. The major advantage is that every member is fully insured and usually has the necessary equipment. This is far safer than giving permission to a stranger banging on your door who you will probably not see again, especially if he’s shot a couple of your sheep. If you are stuck, and located in Essex, Kent, Surrey or Sussex, I can usually help with reliable names etc. I can be contacted on 01444 482 867.
Tend to tatty decoys
Early autumn is a good time to give your tatty old decoys a splash of paint ready for this crop. I use a matt grey and mix polyfiller in powder form to bulk-up the paint and give an even better matt finish. For oilseed rape, I like them to be a lighter grey than a real pigeon as they show up better on this crop. I also make sure that I have a large new patch of white about a third bigger than on a real bird on each side of the neck. This white neck patch is used as a recognition sign and is what the passing pigeon will be attracted to.
The newly published book A Definitive Guide to Woodpigeon Shooting is vailable from Kidbrook publishing, 5 Kidbrook, Lindfield, West Sussex, RH16 2RU. Make cheques or postal orders payable to Eric Prior for the special Farmers Weekly price of £15.95 including postage.
