FASHIONABLE – IN COMFORT
FASHIONABLE – IN COMFORT
Comfort and elegance go hand in hand on a small Suffolk farm where Gillian Brown provides a service for those who have difficulty in getting a suitable bra. Ann Rogers reports
REPS calling at Earls Hall Farm, Cockfield, near Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk have had some surprises.
Keith Brown has vowed never to take any more farm reps into his office since he sees their eyes wandering around the room. They are drawn by the shelves stacked with boxed bras, neatly labelled with style and size, as the lingerie business run by his wife Gillian takes up any free space in their farmhouse home.
Gillian Brown trades under the name Eloise. The contrasting names reflect her enterprise well: Practical, former nurse Gillian ensures that women who have undergone breast surgery enjoy that fillip of femininity that pretty and fashionable underwear can bring.
So underwear reps who have called at Earls Hall Farm to see her have received an education. She has sat them down at the dining table and taught them about prostheses; shown them what they look like; explained that a prosthesis weighs only 5% less than a normal breast and above all made it clear to them that a woman does not have to wear "those terribly boring bras" – as she describes styles labelled "post-mastectomy" – just because she has had breast surgery.
"Lingerie for comfortable elegance" is the sub-title on her mail order brochure which offers soft cup style bras from 18 different manufacturers, including companies in Germany, France, Finland and the USA. Not all are ready pocketed, and not all post-masectomy customers need pockets. Most of the bras illustrated are made for the regular fashion market, but Gillians dressmakers can put in pockets if necessary – and take them out if necessary too.
Hers is a unique range and extends to beachwear, nightwear and all major makes of breast prostheses and accessories.
"There is no one manufacturer that can say that whatever surgery you have had or whatever shape or size you are, we have a bra. You get certain makes more suited to the bigger lady and not suitable for the little ones," says Gillian who will only stock the appropriate sizes.
"We make it our business to know all about all the bras so that people can ask us whatever they want to know – and if we dont know, we will find out for them," she explains.
Her service is not restricted to mastectomy patients. She will help any woman who has difficulty in getting a suitable bra, particularly arthritis and osteoporosis sufferers and those with narrow, sloping shoulders.
Gillian, a nurse with wide experience in East Anglian hospitals, traces her thriving business back to the difficulty she had in getting a part-time nursing job that would fit in with the demands of extensive calf rearing.
Keith is a tenant farmer with stock and arable crops on 56ha (140 acres). Before BSE ruined the market, he and Gillian used to raise 400 calves a year. Gillian still wanted some off-farm employment but failed to find a part-time nursing post so joined a company which sought a qualified nurse to train as a surgical fitter.
The training was thorough, including a stint in hospital, and much of the work involved patients who had undergone mastectomies.
Own service
Three years ago she decided to set up her own service. "I think that one of the reasons I set the company up was that I found there were about three companies that made what they called post-mastectomy bras. The only difference is that a post-mastectomy bra has a pocket in it. Apart from that there is no difference," insists Gillian who is appalled at the lack of knowledge and understanding of so-called trained fitters who work in stores. All most of them can do is direct customers to styles designated post-mastectomy when in many cases regular fashion bras are suitable.
Department stores only offer six to eight makes, she says, and 60% of these will be underwired. Of the remaining 40% most wont fit or will be too low cut which leaves a very small percentage of suitable ones
Eloise customers may visit Gillian by appointment for personal fittings but most of her business is mail order. Besides listing the goods she offers her brochure gives advice and information, has a page of problems encountered by former mastectomy patients together with solutions and includes a size chart.
"People love a chart," she says, "but I never use it. All the manufacturers are different. I wheedle out of customers a few details I need to know, including What size are you wearing now? What did you used to wear before surgery? Do you like to wear your bras tight or loose?
"What I call the brown rice and sandals brigade like a very soft feel. Its no use putting them in something that is all corsetted. I dont like to tell people you should have this and you should have that."
Gillian also needs to know how long ago it was since the customer had surgery. During the first few weeks they could be very sore and just need a very soft bra. Between six and nine months later they may still experience some swelling
Most of Eloise customers call on the recommendations by breast care nurses.
"At the end of the day I think comfort is probably the most important thing. Very close behind it is the femininity of the garment, followed by price," says Gillian whose bra prices range from £8.99 to £42 and include a small donation to breast care charities.
Pre-selection is one of the special services Gillian offers. After discussing a customers requirements by phone she will send a selection of bras for her to try at home.
Fitting pockets
Her dressmakers are extremely skilled and besides fitting pockets in Eloise stock will fit them in customers own bras, swimwear and evening dresses too. Janet Feveyear has even whittled fabric from a hem and made straps for a dress to ensure a customers peace of mind.
Gillian is backed by a team of part-time staff, four of whom work in the farmhouse office with her. They include Jenny Easton who is primarily concerned with accounts but helps Gillian choose styles at the Swimwear Exhibition in London, and Sue Moss who, Gillian says, is almost as skilled as she is at fitting customers and who goes with her to select styles at the Harrogate Lingerie Exhibition.
Eloise was a runner up for the Small Business Award offered earlier this year by the East Anglian Daily Times and Barclays Bank.
Gillian opened it on a shoe-string and has ploughed profits back into stock. Now, as the enterprise grows apace, her only concern is that if it gets too big she may lose the personal touch she values so much.
Customers may visit Gillian (left) by appointment or shop by phone. Above:Sue Moss and Gillian display a beach dress with Jenny Easton (left and Janet Feveyear.
Margaret, an Eloise customer turned model for the day, displays three items from the swimwear range.