Nix picks a real Kentish gem…
15 February 2002
Nix picks a real Kentish gem…
In the latest of the Farmlife
series celebrating great
country pubs, Tim Relf
travels to the Garden
of England
JOHN Nix knows a thing or two about farming. The Emeritus Professor at Imperial College at Wye is perhaps best known for his Farm Management Pocketbook – now in its 32nd edition and viewed by many as the industry "bible".
He also – like farmers weekly – believes village pubs are an asset well worth preserving, so when he told Farmlife about one we just had to visit, we hot-footed it into Kent.
The Five Bells has been owned and run by Pauline and Hans Pfeffer for 14 years. Hans – you might have guessed – is Austrian (the Wiener Schnitzel on the menu is a bit of a clue) but the couple came here after running a London restaurant.
"Hans had the vision," says Pauline. "I was all for staying in London – but I wouldnt go back now."
They wanted, she remembers, to try running a pub. "We didnt mind where exactly. We went to a few agents and said: What have you got?"
And so they ended up in this spot at East Brabourne, near Ashford. Its a far cry from their city restaurant. "When we were in London, we knew a lot of people, but not really well. In a restaurant, regular customers come in once a month. In a pub, they come in every day. Its much more intimate – you get to know people much better."
The award-winning pub, which dates back to 1530s, draws customers from far and wide. Its not the sort of place you get much passing trade – people have to make their mind up to come here.
One of the biggest pulls is the home-cooked food. "We never do less than 100 covers on Saturday nights, even in winter," says Pauline. Prices range from a couple of quid to about £11 and, as well as the Austrian dishes, the chicken in cream and mushroom sauce is a popular choice. "But its probably our steaks were best known for."
Atmosphere is also vital and the aim is to make it "feel like home". "I like to think most of my customers feel like that – that theyre coming into somewhere nice and friendly and comfortable."
Even so, predicting punter numbers can be difficult. "I cant tell you how many people are going to come through my door. Theres no rhyme or reason to it."
Its a shame, she adds, that some wonderful rural pubs have closed. "They just cant survive these days. In rural areas, the pub and the church are the two centres of the community.
"But, there are a lot of pubs like us in the middle of nowhere that are doing very good business. You have to put the effort in. You have to find a niche in the market.
"People will drive past two or three pubs to get to you, they will make the effort to come if theres good food, which has been well cooked and well presented."
Its been a lot of hard work, particularly in the early stages. "It took us a year to turn it around."
In some respects, its like farming – such as the way youre tied to the job. "One of us likes to be here all the time."
There are, explains Pauline, two or three spare hours in the afternoon, before they have to be back on duty. "Whatever you do, youre looking at the watch.
"Its not a job, its a way of life. Its not something you could do if you didnt like it – it would come across very quickly."
Good food, meanwhile, is just one of the reasons John Nix nominated the Five Bells as one of farmers weeklys Great Country Pubs. "A lot of pubs I know are very nice," he says. "But the balance is just right here.
"I like a pub with a relaxing atmosphere. I like to know that the bitter is going to be good and the tables arent too close together!
"I like the management to be obvious, with someone keeping an eye on whats going on. I dont like being rushed but dont like having to wait ages. I especially like Shepheard Neame beer!"
Farmlife drives away, leaving John Nix to finish his pint. He muses about what hed miss if he ever moved abroad. "Village greens and pubs."