A derelict farmhouse was destined to be a significant diversification project for Welsh farmers Mark and Emma Evans, who farm beef and arable on the Pembrokeshire coast.

The couple were looking for a diversification project to broaden their existing business and connect them to the local community.

Mark and Emma knew it was time to refurbish the old farmhouse, which dates back to The Black Book of St David’s (1326). 

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There were many opportunities. A farm shop, café and holiday lets were some of the ideas that came to mind.

But with a history growing malting barley on the farm, and a passion for beer, there was one option that really stood out for the couple – an on-farm microbrewery.

“We knew the demand and interest was there and we were on the cusp of a ‘craft beer revolution’, so we were keen to set up the brewery,” says Mark.

The farm had previously grown up to 140ha of arable, with a significant area of malting barley, but this had slowly but surely reduced over the past five years.

In fact, last year, just 5ha of Laureate malting barley was grown.

“The Pembrokeshire weather does not lend itself to favourable harvests and the last few years had really beaten us down,” says Mark.

Contracting prices were soaring, and because the pair did not own their own combine, sprayer or grain dryer, it put them in a vulnerable position when it came to handing costs.

They knew they had to shake up their business, and refurbishing the old farmhouse into a brewery was the perfect answer.

Setting up the brewery

Based on the stunning west Wales coast, Mark and Emma were keen to make the most of the strong influx of summer visitors – particularly with two holiday cottages already on the farm.

In 2019, construction of the microbrewery began and, in 2020, the first brew at St David’s Old Farmhouse Brewery was complete.

© MAG/Emma Gillbard

“It took nearly two years of researching and planning. We worked closely with a brewing consultant to design the facilities,” says Emma.

The couple managed to receive grant funding worth £109,000 thanks to a food business grant from the Welsh government, which supported projects to add value to produce.

Four years later and the microbrewery business is growing year-on-year.

St David’s Old Farmhouse Brewery now produces seven different beers.

What started out with a simple pale ale and traditional bitter has branched out into kelp lagers and milk stouts:

• New England Pale Ale
• Farmhouse Ale
• Pale Ale
• Lager
• Hazy Kelp Lager
• Wheat Beer
• Milk Stout.

Based on four ingredients – well water sourced from the farm, malt, hops and yeast – Mark and Emma have focused their niche on using local ingredients, tapping into their rural ethos.

“We source our hops from Worcestershire, malt from Thomas Fawcett, and we have our own beehives for use of honey in some of the brews,” says Mark.

They have even paired up with a regenerative ocean farm to add the magic ingredient of seaweed to make a kelp lager.

Most of the beer is distributed locally (about 95%), with the remaining sold online or wholesale.

Community

Diversifying the old farmhouse was not just about securing a more stable income for the family, but also connecting the farm to the wider community.

“Farming can be quite an isolating place to work, but we are now very much involved with the local community,” says Mark.

“It gives us the opportunity to get off the farm and network with the wider community, selling at local markets and delivering to shops and pubs.

“It also brings people to the farm. The public have the chance to see the crops being grown, the cattle being reared and the manure that is returned to the land,” says Emma.

© MAG/Emma Gillbard

The brewery has  become a popular events venue for charity fundraisers and other local events.

“We’ve  raised more than £15,000 over three years for various charities by hosting charity breakfasts.

“We’ve also hosted YFC dinner dances and weddings,” says Mark.

Circular economy

What’s more, spent grain from the brewery is fed back to the cattle, where Mark and Emma run 40 suckler cows and followers alongside rearing 250-300 dairy beef cattle a year.

“It really is a fulfilling and circular economy to be a part of.

“Cardboard from the brewery is used in the bedding for the cattle and hop waste is used in the compost,” says Emma.

The couple are excited for the future and hope to continue diversifying their beer range.

Their next plans are to delve into the low-alcohol and alcohol-free market.

The brewing process

In the first year, Mark and Emma completed six brews at the Old Farmhouse Brewery. This has since expanded to 30 brews this year.

One tonne of malt is used to produce 15,000 pints, in which the couple use around 4t of malt each year. Mark talks us through the brewing process.

© MAG/Emma Gillbard

• Mashing Brewing commences with the malt mixed with hot water to create “mash”, which extracts the fermentable sugars from the grain. The mash is left to stand for an hour and kept at 65C. Enzymes in the malt break down the starches in the grain into simple sugars, such as glucose and maltose.
• Lautering/boiling The liquid portion of the mash is known as wort, which is separated from the spent grain. Hot water is used to rinse the grains and extract sugar, before bringing to the boil. This inactivates enzyme activity. Hops are added shortly after bringing to the boil. This is usually carried out in three different stages to determine the impact of bitterness, flavour and aroma of the beer. Adding hops early creates more bitterness, while later additions contribute to flavour and aroma.
• Fermentation The wort is cooled quickly ahead of fermentation (typically 18-24C for ales and 7-13C for lagers). The fermentation process takes about four days, followed by roughly 10 days conditioning.
• Packaging The beer is ready for packaging. Mark and Emma have recently invested in a small bottling plant, which is helping drive on-site efficiency. Previously, they had to transport beer to another brewery 25 miles away to bottle their produce. They say the move will help increase efficiency of their operation. The beer must be cooled to 8C ahead of bottling and 12C to be sold in casks.

© MAG/Emma Gillbard